Covadonga Asturias is a place that most people outside of Spain have never heard of before. This secluded fairytale town within the Picos de Europa feels as if you have been culturally and geographically transported to the Scottish Highlands. With bagpipes, grazing cattle, and beautiful alpine lakes it is hard to believe this is actually Spain.
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Is Covadonga worth visiting?
Covadonga was one of the most interesting and unique locations I have had the joy of visiting in Spain. It is truly unlike anywhere else I have seen. So yes, it is absolutely worth the visit!
Not only is it a stunning little town set in the mountains of the Picos de Europa, but also has several attractions that you can not miss. Such as the Santuario de Covadonga Asturias, Basilica de Santa María la Real de Covadonga and the stunning natural beauty of the Lakes of Covadonga.
In addition to the immense natural beauty and religious significance, it also has a little pocket of Celtic culture within Spain.
How do I get to Covadonga Asturias?
Covadonga is located in the Communidad of Asturias and isn’t too far from the major cities of the region.
Taking a car is the easiest transportation option to reach Covadonga. It is only about a 1-hour drive from either Oviedo or Gijón.
If a car is not an option, no worries there are also ALSA busses that leave from both Oviedo and Gijón. Most bus options will arrive in Cangas de Onís which is the larger nearby town.
From Cangas de Onís you can then take another local bus to Covadonga.
Where are the Lakes of Covadonga?
The Lakes of Covadonga are located about 25 minutes up the mountain from the town of Covadonga.
How to get to the Lagos de Covadonga
There are options to hike, drive or bus to the Lagos de Covadonga based on the season.
Can you drive to Lagos Covadonga?
During low season you can drive yourself to the Lagos de Covadonga.
However, there is a transit bus that will take you up the winding narrow roads between Covadonga and the Lagos de Covadonga. If you are visiting during high season it is mandatory to utilize the bus.
I was honestly thankful that I did not have to drive this myself. The bus felt like a safe and affordable option. Also at the bus station, they have a live feed of the weather at the lakes, so you can see what the visibility will be like when you are there.
Covadonga weather
Visiting Covadonga Asturias, especially the Lagos de Covadonga relies heavily on the weather.
Due to the altitude, Covadonga is much cooler than most of Spain. The temperature highs are typically around 74 F / 23 C during the summer months. In the winter average temperatures sit around 54 F / 13 C. There can sometimes be snow at the peaks.
The main weather concern when visiting the lakes of Covadonga is fog. If there is fog, it often isn’t even worth making the trip to the lakes, as you will not be able to see anything. Check the current visibility on the Lagos de Covadonga live stream.
If you are planning to go to Covadonga for the lakes, then be sure to give yourself several days in case of fog. I, unfortunately, did not get to experience the lakes because of this reason.
What to do in Covadonga Asturias
If you are not able to see the lakes, no worries, there are still many amazing things to do while in the area. let me walk through a two-day Itinerary!
Day 1: Covadonga Asturias
Try to see the Lakes of Covadonga
The lakes of Covadonga can be elusive due to fog, however, if seeing the lakes’ beauty is on your priority list, then be sure to continue checking on the weather.
This part of your itinerary should be flexible and you should be ready to go if visibility allows!
Before driving all the way there, or catching the bus, check out their live-stream visibility camera.
Grab lunch in Cangas de Onís
Restaurante El Palco is located directly on the river, it has a beautiful patio and a great menu del día deal.
It is the perfect place for a proper Asturian meal while maintaining a budget!
Explore Cangas de Onís
Cangas de Onís and nearby Covadonga played a pivotal part in Spanish history. It is known as the location of the first victory the Spanish Christians had over the Moors. This marks the beginning of Reconquista in 722.
Not only are there beautiful historic sights, but there are also many local artisan shops to enjoy.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Santa María
One of these sights is the Iglesia de nuestra señora de la Asunción de Santa María. This was an original medieval church, that was then refinished in the 18th century.
While marvelous during the day, the church looks even more magnificent at night. In the evenings they illuminate the facade and belfry, which highlights the structure’s beauty.
Capilla de Santa Cruz
In 737 this church became the first constructed after the Reconquista. It was built to house the holy cross King Pelayo raised during the battle of Covadonga. You can still visit the victory cross today within the walls of Capilla de Santa Cruz.
Puente Romano de Cangas de Onís
This bridge was constructed in the 13th century in a Romanesque style.
From the bridge, you can find some great views of the river and the surrounding town.
When I was there in the summer, there were also people swimming in the river below.
Head to Covadonga
Once you feel you have explored Cangas de Onís, then it is time to head to the town of Covadonga.
You can do this by driving, or by taking the bus. If you drive, I recommend parking at one of the lots near the bottom of the town. Mostly because during the season it is difficult to find parking towards the top.
Also while taking this route be sure to look up, you will be able to get some breathtaking views of the Basilica from below.
Santuario de Covadonga, Asturias
Covadonga was named in honor of this holy sanctuary located in a naturally formed Cave.
In Latin “Cova Dominica” means “cave of our lady.” This has been adapted into the modern-day Covadonga.
The Santuario de Covadonga also is the final resting place of the local hero and former Asturian King, Pelayo.
Gruta de la Virgen de Covadonga
To enter the Santuario de Covadonga, you pass through the Gruta de la Virgen de Covadonga. This is a special shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
I also love the viewpoint of the Basilica from here.
Campana de Covadonga
“La Campanona” is a large bell that was cast in the 19th century. For its time it set records and won international recognition.
It currently sits above the sanctuary and you can take a short, shaded walk to admire the bell up close.
From the bell, you can also find a really beautiful view of the rest of Covadonga. There are even tables and chairs where you can take a rest.
Basilica de Santa María la real de Covadonga Asturias (Covadonga Church)
This is a neo-romanesque style basilica. It was constructed between 1877 and 1901 entirely out of pink limestone.
It is set high in the mountains and has stunning 360-degree views.
While I was visiting, there was a wedding in the basilica. We could not enter,but I am sure the interior is just as beautiful as the exterior.
Jardines del Princípe
On the right side of the Basilica, you can follow the signs for the path to the Jardines del Principe.
Visitors often overlook this tranquil little path. Even during the peak season, this area will be virtually empty.
Cascada de los Jardines del Princípe
Within the Jardines del Princípe you can find wooden bridges, a lot of beautiful foliage, and a small waterfall.
It truly is a serene walk through a bit of nature, I recommend you take this path rather than the more frequented paved road.
Dinner at Restaurante del Alto Sella
There are several restaurant options within the town of Covadonga as well as in Cangas de Onís. However, I found a great spot between Cangas de Onís and the small village I was staying in.
Restaurante del Alto Sella is an authentic Austurian restaurant that also allows you to eat generously while maintaining a budget. Their special offer is a 25 euro full Conchillo meal, which is complete with appetizers, sides, drinks, bread, entree, coffee, and dessert. It is a fantastic deal.
After dinner, we chose to turn in for the night at our wonderful Airbnb.
Day 2: Covadonga Asturias
Our morning started with a quick breakfast at our accommodation before we decided to take a hike in the Picos de Europa national park.
Hike the Beyu Pen Route
The Beyu Pen Route is a nearly 6km trail that gains about 265m in altitude. This is a fairly easy trail, that is great for beginning hikers.
Just outside of the car park you will cross a small footbridge, where you will follow the path passed pastures and into the enchanted wood.
Here you will follow the stream upwards until you reach the village of Pen.
You will come across ancient trees, covered in dramatic moss, waterfalls, and winding paths.
This forest is said to be home to many Austurian mythical creatures, some of which local artists have brought to life on the faces of rocks and fallen trees.
A fun part of this hike is discovering the hidden faces of these creatures within nature.
When you reach the village of Pen you will be rewarded with stunning views and a quaint village full of classic Austurian Horreos (lifted granaries/homes).
The village of Pen is home to the largest authentic Austurian Horreo.
The Beyu Pen Route is an out-and-back trail, so once you are finished exploring the village of Pen then you can head back the way you came.
Lunch
After the hike, I decided to grab a quick lunch at the Panadería Santillán which shares a parking lot with the trailhead. I grabbed some delicious Empanadas and headed back to Covadonga to try and see the lakes.
Lagos de Covadonga
While I was told once again visibility would be minimal at the Lakes of Covadonga, I was desperate to try and catch a glimpse. So I took the bus up anyway.
This was the exact view I had. There was so so so much fog you could barely see anything around you.
All you could hear were the cow bells. I tried taking a hike in an attempt to even see the shores of the lake, but, this was my view the entire time. Until the path disappeared and I was essentially lost in the fog.
Long story short, If they tell you there is no visibility, trust them and do one of the other wonderful things this area has to offer.
Dinner : El Llagar Casa Juan
Stepping into El Llagar Casa Juan feels like stepping back in time into a medieval tavern. The decor is incredible with the stone, barrels, and portraits. Their traditional Austurian food is also on point. You absolutely must give this place a visit.
Other Activities in Covadonga Asturias
While I was dead set on trying to see the Lakes of Covadonga in the thick fog, these are some things I could have been enjoying instead.
Kayaking
There are many rivers surrounding this area of Asturias which makes it a great place to Kayak. Several companies will plan and transport you for these adventures.
For 20 Euros you can get 4 hours of Kayaking, transportation, and equipment from Cangas Aventura. The tours leave at 11, 12, and 1 pm.
White Water Rafting
You could also sign up for a 2- hour white water rafting trip. This is great for adventure seekers. This trip with transportation, a guide, and equipment is 40 euros per person. This trip also has an age requirement of at least 14 years old.
You can reserve a spot online.
ATV Tours
Ven a Picos specializes in ATV and 4×4 Tours. This is a fantastic way to immerse yourself in the landscapes. It is an unforgettable experience with unforgettable views.
They have several different options, some of which included guided treks, while others are strictly 4×4 routes. Some of these offers start at just 25 euros.
Fiesta del Pastor
Every year on July 25th locals celebrate the Festival of the Shepards. It takes place outdoors in the stunning landscapes of La Vega de Enol. They celebrate with cultural traditions, food, dancing, highland sports, craft markets, and bagpipe music!
Where to stay in Covadonga Asturias
I chose to stay at an Airbnb. The Airbnb was located in a small nearby village, Vís. I had rented a car so it was easily accessible, and honestly one of the best stays I’ve ever had with Airbnb.
The Airbnb is next to some authentic Horreos in the most charming mountain town. The host, Jenny is super accommodating.
She made us fresh breakfast in the morning, and not to mention, this was the view from the porch.
Interested in staying with Jenny? Check out her Airbnb listing here!
Hotels
If you are looking to stay in either Covadonga or Cangas de Onís there are several good options for both.
Covadonga Asturias Hotels
There are four hotels within the town of Covadonga.
Arcea Gran Hotel Pelayo
Arcea Gran Hotel Pelayo has rooms from $71-109 a night. It is located directly next to the Basilica de Santa María la real de Covadonga. It is a Four star, elegant accommodation with stunning panoramic views.
El Rincón de Don Pelayo
El Rincón de Don Pelayo has rooms costing about $55 a night. This hotel also includes free breakfast. Additionally, this accommodation has received outstanding reviews for cleanliness and comfort.
Casa Rural Priena
Casa Rural Priena has clean accommodations for just $47 a night. They offer parking, free breakfast, and service with a smile. Their friendly staff has earned glowing guest reviews for their quality of service and cleanliness.
Casa Rural Asprón
A room at Casa Rural Asprón will typically cost you about $63. This accommodation has fewer rooms and feels more like an old-school bed and breakfast. Here you will find cozy rooms and a welcoming staff.
Cangas de Onís Hotels
There are many more accommodation options in Cangas de Onís, I will highlight those that I would choose to stay at if I were to return to the area.
Casa Cerezal
Casa Cerezal is the most adorable accommodation within Cangas de Onís. It is in a beautiful stone home, that offers a great outdoor space as well as many little local touches.
It is a three-bedroom house that sleeps seven people. So if you are traveling with a large group this would be a perfect option.
Hotel Los Lagos Nature
Hotel los Lagos Nature is located in the heart of Cangas de Onís. It is surrounded by historic sites, restaurants, and shops. If you are looking for a place in the middle of all the action, this is the perfect spot, especially since you can find rooms for as little as $35 a night.
Pensión Principado
Pensión Principado is recognized for its fantastic service and its superb location. It is in the middle of Cangas de Onís and only a 2-minute walk to the Puente Romano.
While the rooms may be small and dated, management keeps them extremely clean and comfortable. Which makes the $45 a night, well worth it.
Covadonga camping
Since Covadonga is a place of immense natural beauty, it seems like a great place for camping. However, keep in mind that wild camping is illegal in the Picos de Europa. This being said, you will need to find a designated campground to stay in.
To read more in detail about camping in the Picos de Europa read this extremely helpful article.
Camping Covadonga
Camping Covadonga is the main Campground in the area, it is located very close to the town of Covadonga. They offer options to rent cabins, park campers, and tent camp.
They also have several amenities like showers, wifi, a kitchen, laundry services, luggage services, a restaurant, and a supermarket.
Covadonga Asturias Restaurantes
Restaurante Merendero de Covadonga is a bit more on the expensive side. Not only do they serve high-quality Asturian fare, but they also are host to stunning views of Covadonga. This is a great place to enjoy a meal while in the town of Covadonga.
Restaurante El Paco is located directly on the river in Cangas de Onís, it has a beautiful patio and a great menu del día deal.
El Llagar Casa Juan in Cangas de Onís feels like an old-time medieval tavern. The decor is incredible with the stone, barrels, and portraits. Their traditional Austurian food is also on point. You absolutely must give this place a visit.
Restaurante del Alto Sella is an authentic Austurian restaurant that also allows you to eat generously while maintaining a budget. Their special offer is a 25 euro full Conchillo meal, which is complete with appetizers, sides, drinks, bread, entree coffee, and dessert. It is a fantastic deal.
Visiting Asturias, Where to Next?
If you are visiting Asturias, be sure to check out these other remarkable places as well.
Cudillero
Cudillero is the most adorable coastal town to exist. The vibrant homes and businesses appear to almost be stacked on top of one another, due to the geography of the inlet.
This is a perfect place to stop and stretch your legs or grab an ice cream if you are making your way across the Northern coast of Spain.
Gijón
Also in Asturias, Gijón is a larger city but it still has the Asturian coastal charm. Here you can swim, enjoy their beautiful parks, walk through their historic city center, and try the local hard cider.
It is a great place to spend a day or evening on your way to other areas. I also know that near Gijón there are several sea caves to explore if you are feeling adventurous.
Oviedo
Oviedo is the Asturian capital city and the most metropolitan area of Asturias.
I enjoyed walking around Oviedo and seeing the different layers, and distinct style changes of the architecture as the city grew outward. It kept every turn exciting.
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